• 作者:
• 來源: 展翅調酒學校
• 日期: 2014-11-08
• 瀏覽次數: 3288 次

保羅·馬修說，非甜味雞尾酒遠遠不止血腥瑪麗一種，而且他也觀察到了一批獨具風格的調酒師開始用鹽取代糖這一現象。 Savoury cocktails extend way beyond the Bloody Mary, says Paul Mathew, thanks to a number of genre-defining bartenders switching sweet for salt.

直到最近，非甜味雞尾酒在雞尾酒中還是很少見的。當然，少不了“血腥瑪麗”，“血腥凱撒”，“血腥瑪莉亞”和“紅鯛魚”。你也可以說放了橄欖的馬提尼也是一種非甜味酒飲。或者說早在清朝時期就出現了一種用腌洋蔥配馬提尼酒的吉布森雞尾酒。但是在很大程度上，蔬菜和咸味主要是家中廚房的標配，而不是酒吧的標配。畢竟，雞尾酒是為了促進食欲幫助消化而在飯前或飯后飲用的。傳統上，如果餐廳供應雞尾酒，那么他們巧舌如簧地向客人先推銷這些好看的酒飲的目的只是為了讓客人們點葡萄酒之前先預熱一下自己的錢包。所謂的“三巡馬提尼午餐”更多的是一種地位的描述而不是關于食物搭配。但是這種情況已經改變。精致雞尾酒是現在餐飲業不可忽視的中流砥柱，而且人們對它的期望無論是在餐廳還是酒吧都已經演變了。另外，雞尾酒已經贏得了某種認可，因為它現在被認為是一種重要的飲食搭配而不只是飯前飲品。這一演變使得過去十年餐館開始雇用專業調酒師，設計經過深思熟慮的雞尾酒方案。這反過來也讓更加前衛的調酒師們走進廚房體驗超越傳統酸甜的不同風味。廚房和酒吧之間的這種新的協同作用導致了非甜味雞尾酒的突破。Esther Medina-Cuesta，一位在倫敦Roast餐廳開發了非甜味雞尾酒酒單的酒飲顧問說：“七年前，當我把甜菜根列入酒單時，被認為是怪異、不可為之的，當我開始將蔬菜用在雞尾酒中的時候，人們認為我瘋了。”

Until quite recently, savoury ingredients in cocktails were a rarity. Of course, there’s the Bloody Mary. And the Bloody Caesar, the Bloody Maria and the Red Snapper. And you could argue that an olive makes the Martini a savoury drink. Or that the Gibson, a martini served with a pickled onion, has been around since the Qing dynasty. And you’d be right. But, still, for the most part, vegetal, salty flavours have been a staple of the kitchen, not the bar. After all, cocktails were generally taken before or after a meal, to stimulate appetite or aid digestion. Traditionally, if restaurants served cocktails, they were glib, barely serviceable quaffs designed to lubricate the wallet before presenting the wine list. The so-called “three-martini lunch” was more of a status handle than a pairing suggestion. But this has changed. Craft cocktails are now an un-ignorable mainstay of the f&b constellation and expectations, i whatever setting, restaurant or bar, have evolved. Plus, the cocktail has earned a sort of gravitas that it is now considered a serious pairing for food, not just its precursor. In the past decade or so, this has led to restaurants employing decent bartenders to devise properly thought through cocktail programs. This, in turn, has allowed the more progressive barkeeps to step into the kitchen and experiment with different flavour profiles beyond the traditional sweet and sour. This new synergy between kitchen and bar has led to a big spike in savoury cocktails. “When I put beetroot on a menu seven years ago it was weird and not cool,” says Esther Medina-Cuesta, a London-based drinks consultant, who developed a menu of savoury mixed drinks at Roast, a London restaurant. “When I started using veggies people thought I was mad!”

這一切都發生了巨大的變化。甜菜根作為雞尾酒的標配出現在現代經典雞尾酒中，例如紐約Tailor酒吧的調酒師Eben Freeman的Beet Sangria：俄亥俄州調酒師Eric Ho的Beetnik Tonic（烤甜菜根泡金酒，蘋果醋以及湯力水）；由紐約Parm酒吧的Will Lazar發明的Beet Negroni（甜菜根泡金酒，金巴利以及甜味美思酒）。甜菜根是一種用法廣泛的食材，不僅有甜味還有咸味。香港老街集團咨詢公司的Sam Jevons說：“甜菜根作為一種常用的原料可以很好的與巧克力、香料以及陳年烈酒結合。”然后，當然還有它的顏色。墨爾本Der Raum的Matthew Bax制作的Bax Beet Pinot就是利用甜菜汁、菲奈特·布蘭卡、甜味美思，青檸汁和糖漿混合而成，裝入“自有品牌”的黑皮諾酒瓶中，再倒入葡萄酒酒杯中飲用。

How things have changed. Beetroot is now a staple cocktail ingredient that appears in modern classics such as bartender Eben Freeman’s Beet Sangria (of Tailor, New York); Ohio bartender Eric Ho’s Beetnik’s Tonic (roast beet-infused gin, cider vinegar, tonic); the Beet Negroni by Will Lazar at Parm, New York (beet-infused gin, Campari and sweet vermouth). Beetroot is a versatile ingredient, adding both sweet and savoury notes. “Beetroot is a popular ingredient that marries well with chocolate and spices and aged spirits,” says Sam Jeveons of Old Street Group Consulting in Hong Kong. Then, of course, there’s its colour, a trait Matthew Bax used to good effect at Der Raum, Melbourne, with his Bax Beet Pinot: a combination of beet juice, Fernet Branca, sweet vermouth, lime juice and sugar syrup, served in wine glasses from a “private label” pinot noir bottle.

另一個非甜味雞尾酒的早期倡導者是紐約的調酒師兼作家奈倫·揚，他說：“自從我十幾歲在廚房工作以來，我一直傾向于用廚房中的食材制作酒飲，你可以說這是從我在悉尼的Grand Pacific Blue Room酒吧工作時開始的。當時我們酒單上就有了羅勒，而那個時候還是1999年！”。揚認為新鮮蔬菜和雞尾酒成為一種大家接受的食物搭配，主要歸功于澳大利亞頂級調酒顧問Linden Pride在悉尼Salon Blanc餐廳、China Doll飯店以及Rockpool餐廳的工作經歷。揚說：“這里的共同點是所有的場所都是在餐廳”，這意味著雞尾酒應特別注重與食物的搭配，“強烈、易醉的飲料不適合在用餐的情況下飲用。”揚接著在倫敦和紐約的一些最為前衛的酒吧工作。在紐約的Saxon+Parole 酒吧（在2013年的“雞尾酒傳奇”大會上被授予“世界最佳餐廳酒吧”稱號）。他跟別人共同打造了一個全球最受歡迎的非甜味雞尾酒方案。揚說：“Saxon使用茴香，甜菜，甜椒，芹菜，胡蘿卜，黑松露，百里香以及其他食材，每個季度都會在酒單上推出幾款新的（非甜味）酒飲，在這方面Saxon是領先業界的。”

Another early exponent of the savoury cocktail is New York-based bartender-writer Naren Young. “I’ve worked in and around kitchens since my early teens so I’ve always had a leaning towards culinary drinks,” he says. “I guess you could say it started at the Grand Pacific Blue Room [Sydney] where we had basil on the menu. This was in 1999!” Young credits top Australian bartender-consultant Linden Pride’s work at Salon Blanc, China Doll and Rockpool (all Sydney) for establishing the freshvegetable cocktail as an accepted food pairing. “The common thread here is that all these venues are restaurants,” says Young, which meant the cocktail program had to be sensitive to the food offering. “Strong, boozy drinks don’t work as well in a dining setting.” Young went on to work at some of the most progressive bars in London and New York. At Saxon+Parole in New York (awarded World’s Best Restaurant Bar at Tales of the Cocktail 2013), he co-created one of the most feted savoury cocktail programs in the world. “Saxon is probably leading the way in having several [savoury] drinks on the menu every season,” says Young. “Using everything from fennel, beets, bell peppers, celery, carrots, truffle, thyme and more.”

但是蔬菜并不是非甜味雞尾酒的唯一原料。最近，泡菜鹽水因為Pickleback而出名了：一小杯尊美醇威士忌后緊接著一小杯泡菜鹽水。這被人們認為引發了鹽水雞尾酒的擴散。紐約Clover Club大廚Gil Calderon 創造的Hocus Smoke Us雞尾酒，包含了煙熏胡椒波本酒，泡菜鹽水、蜂蜜、檸檬汁以及苦精。倫敦Berners Tavern酒吧的Gareth Evans 利用金酒、杏子白蘭地酒、蒔蘿利口酒、檸檬和泡菜鹽水制作了Slap & Pickle雞尾酒。現在一些酒吧也在創作他們自制的雞尾酒。紐約酒吧Dutch Kills制作了一系列的果汁、草本和蔬菜鹽水雞尾酒；英國的雞尾酒配方公司Funkin最近也推出了他們自己的蔬菜果汁飲料。

But vegetables are not the only ingredients used in savoury cocktails. Recently, pickle brine has found fame in the Pickleback – a shot of Jameson followed by a shot of pickle brine. This, it’s thought, has led to a proliferation of brine cocktails. The Hocus Smoke Us at Clover Club, New York, created by chef Gil Calderon, contains smoked pepperinfused bourbon, pickle brine, honey, lemon juice and bitters. The Slap & Pickle, by Gareth Evans at Berners Tavern, London, combines gin, apricot brandy, kummel, lemon and pickle brine. Some bars are now creating their own house-made liquids. Dutch Kills, a New York bar, makes a whole range of fruit, herb and vegetable brines and Funkin, a British cocktail ingredient company, has recently released its own line of vinegared juices, too.

泡菜汁本質上就是鹽和醋。我們知道，醋是在雞尾酒中經常使用的一種替代柑橘酸的酸味劑。這種方法實際上是借鑒了老式的雞尾酒：Shrub。Shrub于1800年代在美國流行，是由水果浸泡在醋中，接著在一種被認為是可食用醋的糖漿中浸泡變甜，然后加入水或者酒精調和。Shrub與各種醋，仍然是一個現代調酒常規。例如，紐約Prime Meats的Sidewalker，加入了蘋果白蘭地，檸檬，楓糖漿，蘋果醋和小麥啤；Tomatini以香醋為雞尾酒添加鮮味。倫敦的CalloohCallay的Salt & Vinegar Martini（是一款伏特加馬提尼加熏海鹽，雪莉酒醋糖漿，“海濱噴霧”和泡菜）。其他美味經典之作也重出江湖，在Saxon+Parole酒吧，奈倫·揚的Olives 7 Ways，這款酒結合了金酒，加入了浸泡了橄欖的味美思、橄欖苦精、橄欖蒸餾液、橄欖甜酒進行攪拌，撒入了霧化的橄欖苦精，幾滴橄欖油，配上一碟橄欖一起上桌享用。

Pickle juice is essentially salt and vinegar. As we know, vinegar is an oft-used substitute for citrus as a cocktail souring agent. This method actually draws on an old style of cocktail: the shrub. Popular is 1800s America, a shrub was made from steeping fruit in vinegar and then sweetening – a syrup known as “drinking vinegar” – then mixed with water or spirits. Shrubs, and vinegars of all strains, are still a norm of modern bartending. Examples include the Sidewalker from Prime Meats, New York, with applejack, lemon, maple syrup, apple cider vinegar and hefeweizen beer; the Tomatini, which gets an added savoury kick from balsamic vinegar and the Salt & Vinegar Martini from Callooh Callay, London, a vodka martini with smoked sea salt, sherry vinegar syrup, “seaside spray” and pickles. Other savoury classics have also been rebooted: at Saxon+Parole, Naren Young’s Olives 7 Ways, combines gin stirred with olive-infused vermouth, olive bitters, olive distillate, and olive shrub, sprayed with atomised olive bitters, with a few drops of olive oil, served with a dish of olives.

如今，在世界各地的各類酒吧和飯店，非甜味雞尾酒已經被廣為接受了。并且這是個寬廣的種類。這個列表僅僅只是酒吧烹飪學的冰山一角，其發展的空間，特別是考慮到與中國的食材相結合，是無窮無盡的。

Today, savoury cocktails are now a fully realised and accepted genre in bars and restaurants around the world. And it’s a very broad category. This list only touches on the potential of bar gastro-logy. The possibilities, particularly with Chinese ingredients, are endless.